Copenhagen - Denmark & Elsinore

We totally enjoyed our stay in Denmark seeing expected sites like the Little Mermaid and visiting an unexpected new place like the castle of Elsinore.

Like many European cities, Denmark has statues everywhere , especially in parks.

The "statues" on the top of this building forecast the weather way before there was TV and internet,  One of the statues would come out further than the other to forecast a nice day for a bike ride or a day to carry your umbrella.

We walked by the Royal Palace.

So much of Denmark still relies on the sea. The National Opera building was recently built here with funds from shipping companies.

It's not just the open sea but the canals or quays as they are called here provide livelihood and entertainment.  There were outdoor restaurants and cafes as far as the eye could see.

Sometimes, the quays are just a good place to hang out.

The quays provide great spots for pictures as this wedding party found out.  It is incredible how multi racial the major European cities have become.

With tourists from everywhere.

Elsinore Train Station

We thought we would spend the weekend in Copenhagen but we learned the famed castle of Elsinore was just a one hour train ride away. To tell the truth, I only knew it had a magical sound to it and it had something to do with Hamlet.  But why was it in Denmark ?  Shakespeare was an English writer.  Wait a second. Why did Shakespeare write a play about Hamlet - King of the Danes?


How strange the quirks of history.  Around 1000 AD, the historian Saxo Grammaticus s began to write the history of the kings of Denmark.  He wrote in Latin but his work was not translated into French and English until the 1500's.

Saxo wrote about one king who lived in the 900's.  He was murdered by his brother who then married the king's wife.  His son vowed to avenge his father's death.  He was named after his father: Hamlet.

Elsinore had may rooms and halls, one so large it was used to produce plays. In the 1500's, the Danes did not have professional actors so they imported them from England, especially from the Globe Theatre in London. When the actors returned, they were able to describe the castle to within the smallest detail for a major playwright , Shakespeare.

With this information and the history of Saxo Grammaticus, Shakespeare was able to write one of his greatest plays, one about a Dane who lived 500 years before Shakespeare wrote the play.  Many different productions of Hamlet take place at Elsinore every year.

Iceland

Iceland is a mountainous island nation in the north Atlantic Ocean, located between Europe and North America. Though not part of the continental mainland, the country is considered European. The name of the country - Iceland - may not be that appropriate: although 10% of Iceland is covered by glaciers, it has a surprisingly mild climate and countless geothermal hot-spots. 

Iceland is a stunningly beautiful place if you enjoy strange and desolate landscapes. Because it is so close to the Arctic Circle, the amount of daylight varies dramatically by season. The sun sets briefly each night in June, but it doesn't get fully dark before it comes back up again. If you go in December, it's almost 20 hours of darkness. 

 The Icelanders still basically speak the language of the Vikings. Iceland has received a great number of immigrants over the last 10 years. In the last 5 years the population of immigrants has doubled. Most of these people (from Eastern Europe and South East Asia) come for employment. Immigrants in Iceland are now well over 10% of the population, giving Iceland a larger proportion of immigration than Norway, Sweden etc. 

(Check Wikitravel - Iceland to know more)


I spent almost all my time in the capital city - Reykjavik  - except for a one day tour outside in the countryside.   Reykjavik has 75 % of the population but even so it is a quiet, stress free , walk around city.

Things I learned 

Reykjavik has one traffic jam a year !
I asked  the hotel clerk if I should leave early for the airport to avoid traffic or traffic jams . She responded "Don't worry. We only have one traffic jam a year and its in summer. Everyone goes camping on one particular weekend  and coming back Sunday night there is a traffic jam.

Icelanders Don't Use Umbrellas

The day I took this picture , it became overcast and I asked the hotel clerk whether I should take an umbrella . He said "We Icelanders don't use umbrellas. The rain usually comes sideways."  What do they do?  Well there is an old saying here "There is no such thing as bad weather only bad clothing"

The view of the city.

This church is magnificent in its architecture. In front of it stands the statue of Lief Ericsson who discovered N. America a few hundred years before Columbus.

Pizza, of course , is everywhere in the world. This was one of three pizza places I walked by.

We seem to find more Thai than Chinese restaurants in our recent travels.  That's a change.  The food was good but the waiters were all blond hair  and blue-eyed.  What part of Thailand did they hail from?

Colorful shops everywhere.

The Viking Shop sells interesting souvenirs.

Our tour guide, Julia, spent four years in New York City as the drummer in a rock band and then came back to Reykjavik to form a chart topping all girl band.

At the height of the cold war, Kennedy and Khrushchev held a crucial summit in this building in neutral Iceland.

This statue is called "Gateway to Hell" based on an ancient legend.  I was not pleased to see my Icelandic airline plane had the same name.

The view from the observation deck of a geo-thermal heating center. 

On our tour, we stopped at a thermal heating center which had an observation and educational center . This high school choral from Middle View California visited Iceland after competitions in Europe.  As a "thank you", they perform a song in every place they visit. They sang the best version I ever heard of "Bill Bailey, Won't You Please Come Home?

The Great Geyser draws tourists 3 hours out from the city.  Most of Iceland is heated from geo-thermal sources.

The Golden Falls :  Legend has it the falls turn a golden color in bright sunlight reflecting all the gold thrown there by a rich man who did not want anyone to inherit his money.

Our bus traveled for hours past a lonely land of volcanos, lava pits and far flung  houses. Great for those who  want neighbors at an arm's distance.

At the end of the day, I prefer the warmth and charm of the city.

Africa - the Road from Lome to Cotonou

This trip was not the best for my photoblog.  I visited six countries in Africa : South Africa, Malawi, Tanzania, Burundi, Togo and Benin.  At each place, the embassy security office cautioned against walking around town and especially advised against taking pictures without permission. People, in general, do not like their photos taken. Moreover, muggers see all foreigners as rich and target them. A sign at the hotel warned  people  to avoid a beautiful beach five minutes from the hotel in Lome, Togo.

I traveled from Lome, Togo to Cotonou, Benin by road in an embassy car.  The four hour drive is the preferred way to get from one  city to the other.  The road started out pretty good.

And then to very wet roads.  Fortunately, this kind of travel was just one hour of the four hour drive. The roads in Cotonou were fine.

Trucks line up for miles at both sides of the border crossing and wait for days for Customs inspection.  Everything is taken off the truck and inspected.   Truckers wait a minimum of three days and often seven days , or more, to cross the border. 

People seemed to put up stands everywhere and anywhere to sell fruit, drinks and other types of food.  The truckers , at least, would not go hungry.

This larger food stall area was at the border itself.

The embassy driver was a good customer and got the best deals from this vendor.

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Africa - Zanzibar and the Spice Islands

I flew to Zanzibar on a twenty minute flight from Dar es Salaam.  It was so much nicer than the other option - a two and a half hour ferry boat ride over choppy seas.

Our plane held 15 passengers.  The pilot going over was a young German guy. The pilot coming back was a beautiful South African lady.

The Zanzibar International Airport

Zanzibar was one of the Spice Islands.

The markets, indoor and out, probably have not changed much over the centuries.

The fort once guarded the port of Zanzibar .

The fort now provides a venue for weekend long music festivals. .

Speaking of music and present history, Zanzibar seems equally proud it is the birthplace of Freddie Mercury - the lead singer of the rock group Queen.  Freddie was born to an Indian father and Persian mother. The family later immigrated to London.

Africa - The Slave Markets of Zanzibar and Ouidah

Zanzibar was the main port for sending slaves from East Africa to the Middle East and North America.  There is no way to know how many Africans were sold into slavery. Some figures say 11,000,000 and others say 28,000,000.  Zanzibar was ruled by the Sultan of Oman who saw East Africa as a ready source for slaves.  The Arabs continued their tradition of using slaves for wealth.  Earlier they had raided the coasts of France, Italy and Spain to enslave the people in the fishing villages along the coasts.

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The slave chambers I saw were two small basement rooms. One could hold 75 women and children and the other up to 50 men. Neither room looked like it could hold more than 25 people comfortably.

This is a memorial to the millions who were pressed into slavery.

This is an Anglican church built over the site of the original slave market site. Inside are tributes to David Livingston and Richard Burton, great African explorers who were outspoken in their opposition to the slave trade and tried hard to halt Britain's involvement in the slave trade. 

West Africa also had a huge slave trade. It was centered in the present day country of Benin, at the port of Ouidah.  While not controlling the slave trade itself, the king of Ouidah readily supplied slaves to the slavers and reaped enormous wealth doing so.  Benin was / is the center of Voodoo in Africa with 60 % of the population believers in Voodoo. The slaves from Benin brought their beliefs in Voodoo to Brazil, Haiti and other countries in the area.

The museum is next to the King's palace - the Chacha.  The slaves were gathered in the courtyard and sent on a five mile march to the port.

The totally straight road was called the Path of No Return.  It led, appropriately, to a port - The Port of No Return.

The Port of No Return  -  How hopeless life must have been,  The UN has designated this area as a World Heritage site :  Laporte du Non-Retour.

Due to the horrible conditioners, the slaves endured, many died on the way and never made it to the port.  They have come back as ghosts and can recognized by their three headed appearance.

Africa - Using Your Head

I was fascinated by the way men and women, but mostly women, used their heads to carry things.  I was especially impressed when the women would balance their loads without using their hands, just perfect posture. Unfortunately, I did not get a chance to take those photos.

It was hard to take pictures in Africa: the people do not like to have their photos taken.  This woman allowed me to take a photo but many did not.

The path in Lilongwe, Malawi.

The fish market in Dar es Salaam, Tanzania.

Ice Cream, anyone  ?

A Lilongwe bus stop.